Luxury in all categories, sommelier Darko Lugarić described the whole story briefly and clearly. He, together with the winemakers from Međimurje, selected the labels to celebrate the 18th aniversery of the brand that brought Međimurje to the top of Croatian winemaking. And beyond, modestly added our neighbors and friends from Slovenia. They briefly presented the Sauvignon Salon Ptuj and then enjoyed four styles of pušipel. First were, as befits, sparkling wines produced using the classic method of second fermentation in the bottle.
Four completely or very dry sparkling wines, and a fifth slightly sweeter one, showed how the cooler climate, even in times of global warming, preserves the conditions for earlier harvests and wines full of freshness. Climate change was, however, not felt much during the tasting of the second group of Pušipel, those labeled Classic. Four were from the hot 2024, in which it was not easy to retain or preserve fine acids. The variety fought and won its place in the sun, the wines are delicious, but the fifth, although from 2023, was more cheerful and playful than its younger brothers.
Classic is a precisely agreed category of fresher Pušipel. Winemakers from Međimurja want to standardize them, so that the public knows what to expect when buying wine in a specially designed bottle. The shape resembles a small half-liter Tokaji, where the same variety is dominant, but in Međimurje the classic 0.75 liters are used. There are no strict rules for aged Pušipel, so we had the opportunity to see how many different wines the variety can produce. Munđarov Breg Pušipel Classic 2021 is made from grapes from the first harvest in the vineyard. Sometimes it is a memorable harvest, and this one also produced a wine that beautifully travels through time.
The Preiner winery showed with Pušipel Salix how wines can withstand aging in wooden barrels, and the Cmrečnjak family with Pušipel Xtreme that five months of maceration do not bother them. The wine gets better every year, and it is good to shake it before pouring. With such vinifications, sediment remains in the wine, and if it rises from the bottom of the bottle, the taste in the glass is better. The Jakopić Pušipel Supreme 2019 was also macerated, but for a shorter period: only 42 days. The 2021 Pušipel K 32 from Vina Horvat is a special story. It was made from all 32 clones selected after years of clonal selection. A rarity...
The predicate wines were 2015 Pušipel Novak, a selected berry harvest, and 2003 Moslavac* dried berries from the St. Jerome winery, formerly known as Podrum Štrigova. We know from Tokaj wines that the variety is ready for the sweetest wines due to its acids, but more importantly, those wines showed that it can very well withstand many years of aging. In the past 18 years, some winemakers from Međimurje have disappeared from the scene, others have grown from hobbyists to masters and third the new ones have appeared...
How the wine scene is changing and why, was humorously described by Rudi Grula, director of the Međimurje County Tourist Board: We all want to make money quickly. In the wine world, quickly means three generations. Only that guarantees success!