In the second chapter, Filiputti presents in detail the pioneers behind the revival of Istrian Malvazija. These include Nino Jakovčić, Franko Kozlović, Moreno Degrassi, Moreno Coronica, Ivica Matošević, Nikola Benvenuti, Giorgio Clai, and Miroslav Plišo, the founder of the Meneghetti winery in Bale. Although Plišo entered the wine world about a decade after those previously mentioned, he earns a place in this chapter thanks to the unique tourism complex known as the Relais & Châteaux Meneghetti Wine Hotel & Winery. It combine wine, olive oil, gastronomy, hospitality, and hotel accommodation with the beauty of the location where he created the estate. The hotel offers 100 beds across various villas, some of which feature private pools.
Perhaps the most ambitious part of the Meneghetti story is the Malvazija Simfonija. It began in 2018 with the decision to establish the unique Mare Nostrum vineyard, a collection of 47 varieties and clones representing various versions of the Malvazija family. He planted 4075 cuttings on a 7760-square-meter plot at the estate's entrance, along with another 15 rows of 15 plants each near the wine shop, serving as a miniature version of the Mare Nostrum vineyard. All the varieties and clones are vinified together into a single, unique wine, a veritable monument to the Malvazijas of the Mediterranean. Walter Filiputti possesses an intimate knowledge of Meneghetti’s wines, the winery, and the entire project, because he was their consulting oenologist from the very beginning.
The Meneghetti winery was not on the list of exhibitors at the Esplanade. This is understandable, as they sell aged wines rather than young ones. Most other Istrian winemakers brought Malvazijas from the previous vintage, while those from Kvarner presented fresh Žlahtinas. These are generally wines with great potential. Regarding the Malvazijas from the last vintage, weather conditions certainly influenced the timing of the harvest and the quality of the grapes. Interestingly, the rains that fell in Istria in early September disrupted plans for winemakers in some regions, while others were spared the unwanted precipitation that caused berries to swell and diluted their extract, sugars, and acids.
The wines presented included those already on the market, or arriving soon, as well as those winemakers are preparing for spring and others that will not be ready until autumn. Clearly, some winemakers rushed to release new wines because they had run out of more mature vintages, fearing a loss of market position. However, it is difficult to explain the trends that force the release of overly young wines to the detriment of producers, consumers, and the grape variety itself. It is not exactly natural for Malvazija to appear on store shelves just three or four months after the harvest. Such wines often come across as edgy, disjointed, and unbalanced.
The general impression from the initial presentation of last year's Malvazijas is that the aromas are pronounced yet one-dimensional. Acidity, alcohol, and extract lack integration, bitterness and phenolics are overly dominant and the finish is short, lacking the desired depth. A few months of maturation would change the picture, so it is fortunate that winemakers are generally preparing most of these wines for a spring release. Based on current indications, last year's vintage will be average, with wine quality ultimately depending on the winemakers' oenological expertise and patience. It is encouraging that young and/or lesser-known winemakers largely demonstrated a deep understanding of the variety and a sound approach to cellar work. Here are a few more lovely photos from the presentation of the 2025 Malvazija vintage at the Esplanade Hotel in Zagreb.
