She played a wealthy vampire who owed her longevity to her lovers. I was never a lover of Catherine Deneuve, neither on screen nor in real life, but I can say that for the past five years, I have been an occasional lover of that 1963 Kutjevo Graševina. I have tasted it regularly, five times, I believe, and never alone. Perhaps the wine, too, owes its longevity to its lovers. I only hope we don’t end up like the lovers of Miriam Blaylock, Catherine’s character in the film where she starred alongside Susan Sarandon and David Bowie. That 1963 Graševina is a timeless wine. I wouldn't say it is getting younger, but it seems not to age. Its color is intense yet vibrant, appearing as though it were ten years old rather than almost sixty three. The nose is composed; it doesn't assault the senses but caresses them, revealing a mature character. The taste is lively, almost spirited, opening up slowly and lingering on the palate. It is a wine not to be consumed by the liter, but by the hour, to paraphrase wiser drinkers. It does not call for conversation, it simply demands silence and time. Beyond the need for slow sipping, it is a wine that is particular about the weather. Early spring and late autumn suit it best, and it prefers sunshine to rain.
It is worth noting that Kutjevo also holds a 1963 Pinot Blanc in its cellar. It was exceptional when tasted in June 2021 and is available for purchase via Kutjevo’s online shop. The price? 237.35 euros! As for the archival Graševinas, the 1960 vintage carries the same price tag. A vintage nine years younger sells for 109.50 euros. There are also some archival wines from the late 20th century, including Pinot Gris, Rhine Riesling, and Muscat Ottonel, priced around or below 100 euros, with the 1999 Selected Harvest Graševina costing 54.75 euros. Most of our wine cellars were destroyed at the end of World War II, so the 1947 Pinot Blancs are cited as the oldest bottles. During my last visit to the Kutjevo cellar, there were six of them (pictured below), and another is on display at the Bornstein wine shop in Zagreb.
P.S.: At the Graševina – Archival Treasures of the Kutjevo Winery workshop an excellent 2018 Ice Wine Graševina was served. It boasts 181.5 grams of residual sugar per liter, 10.5% alcohol, and a wonderful 6.6 grams of acidity per liter. It glides beautifully down the throat and leaves not a trace of cloying sweetness in the mouth. The tasting began with premium Graševinas from the 2023, 2022, 2020, 2018, 2017, and 2016 vintages. These were wines from standard commercial releases, not specifically prepared for long-term aging, made from grapes grown at the classic sites of Vinkomir, Hrnjevac, and Vetovo. Thanks to its pronounced minerality, the most mature vintage was my favorite, though the 2022 and 2018 were also excellent.
Photos: Bakhov sin Ivo Kozarčanin and Ivana Pranjić/Cork Croatia